Watches Blog Wrist Watch Reviews

Not too long ago I did a review of this years Panerai Luminor Submersible Titanio (PAM 615?for the reference coders) and now I am back with this much talked about Panerai Luminor Submersible Carbotech (PAM 616). When they showed it to us in Geneva during the SIHH, I took note of a lot of ooohs and aaahs from colleagues around me that have a thing going on for Panerai watches. I am not a Paneristi, but I did understand what the fuzz was about.Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech PAM 616 on the wristPAM 616 ReviewCarbotech CaseDuring the SIHH, I wrote the following about the Carbotech case material:In order to produce the Carbotech case, Panerai had to bind the long thin sheets of carbon [...]

It doesnt take much research to know that Sylvester Stallone is a huge fan of Panerai watches. He even ordered custom made Panerai watches a couple of times, featuring Slytech on the dial.Amongst others, Stallone had 200 pieces made of the Luminor Marina (ref.?5218-207/A)? with a white Slytech dial (which was auctioned in 2006 for $ 16,520 USD, see picture below). It was called the Luminor Daylight Slytech and exactly this model inspired Panerai to come up with a new model that has similar features. This new white dialed Luminor Daylight is part of the Special Editions PAM000785 set that Panerai introduced during the Hong Kong Watches Wonders exhibition.Special Editions PAM000785Panerai is [...]

Just before SIHH 2014, I received this Officine Panerai Luminor Marina 8-Days reference PAM00510 for a review. A week of wearing this Panerai made me go back 10 years ago, when I first bought a Panerai Luminor Marina. A watch that I fell immediately in love with at the time, with its large case and thick vintage looking calf strap. This time however, the Panerai comes equipped with an in-house developed 8-days power reserve movement instead of the Unitas based hand-wound movement it had before. Lets have a look at this PAM00510 that was introduced to us about a year ago, during the SIHH 2013 exhibition in Geneva.I even quite well remember where I saw the Panerai Luminor Marina up close when [...]

Panerai News From The SIHH 2013Panerai was giving quite a performance during the SIHH 2013 One of the watches from the new collection that struck me most, was the Panerai Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback Titanio, or just PAM00526.Normally, I am more in favour of their Historic collection, where the focus is more on the hand-wound Luminor models. The classics, so to speak. However, this new Regatta Chrono Flyback PAM00526 in titanium is from Panerais Comtemporary collection. This collection is influenced by historical designs as well, but with automatic winding movements.This PAM00526 is something that really got to me, due to the Regatta complication (more later), due to its large [...]

Revisiting a piece of Italian naval historyNature can be cruel. I was born in Lancashire where the local dialect lacks the seductive timbre of an Italian accent.I could try to affect the ristretto flavoured vernacular of a Milanese resident but I would still lack the stylish coiffed locks, sun-kissed complexion and catwalk- worthy attire.To be Italian is to be bestowed with an intrinsic appeal, few females can resist.Panerai watches are blessed with the same aesthetic appeal as the alpha-males who populate the land of opera, fast cars and Barolo. They have passion, romance, style and culture running through their veins.Panerai have sought their own approach to watch design. They have not emu [...]

Heres something you dont see every day I was recently lucky enough to have some lens time with this rare beauty: a pre-Vendome Officine Panerai Mare Nostrum chronograph. Only 500 were made. I recall having the opportunity to purchase one for not that much money in the early 00s; like everybody else in that position, Im now kicking myself. Its a simple, functional timepiece with trademark Panerai legibility, but some interesting twists like that unusual crown, which not only lacks the locking guard, but is also rather curiously shaped. (It winds well, though). The watch is powered by a manual wind ETA 2801-2 with a Dubois-Depraz 3217 chronograph module; these were (and are still) notorious fo [...]

During the SIHH 2010, Officine Panerai introduced the PAM339, a Radiomir Composite Marina Militare 8 Giorni (=days) in 47mm. A watch that reverts to historical models using state-of-the-art techniques for manufacturing watch cases. The composite material is a result of ceramization of aluminium and is harder and lighter than steel or titanium for instance. As you can see in the picture below, the matt brown of the watch case is in tune with the brown of the sandwich dial and strap in vintage leather. Panerai definitely knows how to please its following of enthusiasts.The movement of the new Radiomir Composite Marina Militare PAM00339 is caliber P2002/7, an in-house handwound movement develop [...]

Desiring a steel sports watch from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, or Vacheron Constantin is a challenge. It requires either an almost unhealthy relationship with the local dealer, an XL bank account, or the patience of a Zen master. The luxury dilemma of paying the price or playing the watch waiting game is a reality that gets harsher every day. And because of that, it has a direct influence on how people are experiencing watches. Some people have turned away from brands with multi-page waitlists, while others just pay (way) more than list price because they can afford it. For those people, there also must be a big fear of missing out involved, but what exactly theyre missing out on [...]

In the movie Leaving Las Vegas (1995), alcoholic Ben Sanderson, played by Nicolas Cage, pawns his Daytona for $500 to sustain his destructive addiction. Had he done so today, the cash he would get for his 1990s Rolex Daytona, Zenith-equipped reference 16520 would be closer to $30,000. Yes, the times, they are a-changing. The times have changed so much that the Rolex Daytona is no longer a watch. Because of waiting lists with no hope on the horizon and the steady rise into the stratosphere of prices on the parallel market, the iconic Cosmograph has become a symbol of many things and many things that are not too positive, unfortunately. The Daytona is, in essence, a sporty chronograph of cours [...]

Pitching this series of stories to our Managing Editor came naturally to me, as I am contrarian by nature. I'm not saying that I feel in any way better or more worthy than rappers or rock stars. And I dont know if I am correct or just old, but surely, social media shouldn't dictate our taste in watches, right? This is probably a dumb rather than rhetorical question, as some influencers are rich for a reason. Consider this series, The Unusual Suspects, my attempt to shed some light on some unsung heroes hidden in plain sight. And the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 7234G-001 is a perfect example of what youll find once you look outside of Instagram.In my role as a watch journa [...]

The Beatles already knew that money can't buy you love. But it can buy you a watch no one else has. LVMH owner Bernard Arnault got himself a Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740/1G perpetual calendar. You've seen it on the internet I'm talking about the Tiffany Blue one. There's a lot to say about that watch aesthetically, but it also raises a very valid question: will LVMH owner Bernard Arnault also become the owner of Patek Philippe? Not a Patek Philippe WATCH he can get his hands on any model he likes and have it customized in any way he likes it. Im talking about the Patek Philippe BRAND.You've seen what has happened to the Nautilus after Patek Philippe announced that the ultra-desirable sp [...]

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5070P is NOT my grail watch. And that's because the watch, although the object of my desire, is not the object of my extended, difficult quest. I don't actively chase the hand-wound, old-school chronograph, so both technically and literally, it's not my grail watch. Why go on a wild goose chase for something I can't afford? But in an imaginary watch world, my grail watch is a platinum Patek Philippe that would look great with a pair of jeans (and a pink sweater).Actively pursuing the platinum Patek Philippe Ref. 5070P, with its radiant blue dial and old school looks and movement, is nothing more than a foolish and hopeless search for or pursuit of something unattainab [...]

The year 2021 saw many significant changes come to the watch industry. Not many of them, however, felt quite as significant as Patek Philippe announcing that the 5711 Nautilus would be discontinued. Sure, this was followed by a number of releases in the Nautilus product line, including the now-infamous green and Tiffany blue-dialed versions. Nevertheless, the message was clear: Patek does not want to become a one-watch brand. And as iconic and beautiful as the 5711 is, there are plenty of other models that deserve far more recognition than they currently get. Swimming upstream or going against the hype doesn't really seem like the logical thing to do for most brands, who simply want to sell [...]

To understand why it seems that everybody on Earth wants a Rolex, I decided to try and look at it from the inside. Not by trying to see things The Rolex Way, but from within the brain of the consumer. That's right, I will dive into the brain to try and figure out why your Lizard Brain has you lusting after Rolex watches. I'm not a brain surgeon, nor am I a neurologist, but after plenty of research and putting one and one together, I think the key to explaining the ever-growing Rolex urge can be found hidden inside the mirror neurons. Open your mind, and bear with me.Youve heard of the so-called Lizard Brain, havent you? The Lizard Brain is the popular term used for the limbic system inside o [...]

For many out there, Patek Philippe is the pinnacle of watchmaking. And rightfully so, with beautiful Complication and Grand Complication watches in the Patek collection. And then, of course, there are the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, which have reached incredible heights of popularity in recent years. The Nautilus, especially, has been at the forefront of desirability for a while now.But Nautilus fever has not always been a thing. I remember my colleague buying a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A right at list price when it came out in 2006. At the time of introduction, the retail price was 14,700. It increased to around 16K shortly after, though. Not too long ago, the local authorized P [...]

It hits me from the first images the monochromatic Mandala-design dial within a classic case is hypnotic. Cheekily matched by a very unusual black stitch on the orange-brown alligator strap, it sets the tone for a much-needed distraction. Lets forget about a certain co-branded Nautilus in all its hype. Right now, a thoroughly modern minute repeater with a mind-boggling 342 parts somehow fitted into a svelte 11.1mm case is just the respite we needed.For me, this simply reaffirms my beliefs in Patek Philippe's standing within the much-discussed holy trinity of Swiss watchmaking. And I understand Thierry Stern's sentiments on the evergreen 5711, ironically published on Hypebeast in July. Quoted [...]

We really don't want to instill fear into your hearts and minds, our valued readers. But after reading about yet another watch robbery this weekend here in the Netherlands, we think it's time for a word of warning. Please keep your Rolex to yourself and don't flaunt it online. That also goes for easy-to-spot luxury watches like the Nautilus and the Royal Oak. Social media has become an online shopping catalog for wrong-doers, it seems. Of course, watches have always been a target for thieves, but the times, they are a-changing for the worse. How did it come to this?When you're proud of your new/vintage Rolex GMT-Master II, you want to show it. Because you're happy with your watch, you want t [...]

OK, folks, this is not a drill. For one last hurrah, Patek has brought back the 5711 for a super limited edition of watches. Did I mention it's a co-signed edition with Tiffany with a Tiffany blue dial? Let your mouth salivate as we present the incredible new Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711.Yesterday the watch industry went to bed with nary a thought about the possibility of a new Nautilus. Why would they expect such a thing? Patek announced it had discontinued the 5711 back in January of this year. So why now? Out of the blue (no pun intended)? The gorgeous new 5711 celebrates the 170-year partnership between the Swiss watchmaker and Tiffany, as well as Tiffany's new ownership as a part of the [...]

At the 2019 Only Watch auction in Geneva, Patek Philippe surprised both everyone and no one simultaneously when its stainless steel Grandmaster Chime (ref. 6300A-010) became the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction. It pulverized the previous record, held by Paul Newmans personal Rolex Daytona, by over CHF 14 million. But even more fantastically, the one-off steel version of Pateks most complicated wristwatch raked in a jaw-dropping sum of CHF 31 million for charity. That watch alone amounted to over 80% of the proceeds raised for the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy at Only Watch that year. And as the third consecutive Patek Philippe offering to take the top spot at O [...]

Buckle up, folks Youre in for a ride. Somewhat out of the blue, we woke up today to the news that Patek Phillippe had dropped three new complicated chronographs. Patek is well-known for its mastery of the humble chronograph. So, what better way to cement that legacy than with variations of three of its most celebrated chronograph movements? The Manufacture is expanding its vast selection of chronograph watches by unveiling three new variations of the 5204, 5905, and 5930 models.Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendarFirst up is Reference 5204R-011. The Patek Philippe Reference 5204 has lived in the brands collection since 2016. It comes in two ver [...]