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In the words of the almighty Chuck D of Public Enemy, Dont believe the hype, its a sequel. As an equal, can I get this through to you. The words are just as powerful in the context of todays world of watches. I am well aware that debunking hype is actually preaching to the choir here at Fratello. But we sometimes have to deal with the effects of hype, even in the world of vintage watches. Luckily, there are still so many great watches with equally amazing stories that are not affected by their show-off factor and social media craze. During my 12-month journey writing Fratellos Buying Guides, I found that sometimes its hard to deny hype. As the series draws to a close, Id love to share some t [...]
I've been collecting and buying watches since the late 1990s. At some point, I was fortunate enough to make a career out of my passion for watches. I focused mainly on collecting Speedmasters, and I was lucky enough to have the help at the very beginning from the legendary Chuck Maddox. I was also fortunate to meet and learn from my now-colleague Gerard, who used to have a watch shop for many years.During the course of time, I made a lot of mistakes, including rookie ones. And even today, I still sometimes fall into these traps. So I've come up with a list that would have helped me in my watch collecting or buying journey. Had I known these things, they may have prevented me from making typi [...]
Fratello On Air is back This time, Balazs and Mike come back to case materials and focus on precious metals. Specifically, we discuss gold and platinum along with some of our favorite examples. Before we get to the main topicPrecious metals are in play this week, but Balazs and Mike also pick up on the latest news and releases from the LVMH brands First, though, its time for a Handgelenks Kontrolle and Balazs is sporting a pair of light blue DOXA watches the SUB 200 and SUB 300 while Mike is enjoying his new MING 17.09 in blue (everything runs well, thanks for asking).Some news and onto precious metalsThe news was fast and furious over the past week. We discuss the King Seiko Collection and [...]
With Seikos recent relaunch of the King Seiko collection, I thought itd be nice to take a look at the history of King Seiko, the Japanese watchmaking powerhouses other son. Historically, it was the rice to Grand Seikos fish, the two vital ingredients in Seikos finest horological sushi. However, King Seiko has lived firmly in Grand Seikos shadow in recent times. While Seiko dedicated a lot of effort to reestablishing Grand Seiko as its own entity (and has done a remarkable job), King Seiko was, until more recently, left by the wayside. Thankfully, Seiko has decided to rectify this, and we are now seeing some of the marvelous work of the Daini Seikosha factorys legacy revisited.As we all know, [...]
Are there proper replacements for the watch worlds biggest icons? Thats a question that often has a personal answer. A little over two weeks ago, I tried answering the question of whether there are great alternatives for the good ol Rolex Datejust. Last week, Robert-Jan did the same for the Omega Speedmaster. In this article, we will be searching for five alternatives for the current Rolex GMT-Master II. The famous GMT-Master defined the category of GMT watches. Many of the watches in the same genre took inspiration from the original that started the legacy in 1954. So lets see if there are true alternatives for the current GMT-Master II.The original Rolex GMT-Master is one of the most iconi [...]
Grand Seiko has had its foot on the gas pedal ever since the start of 2022. We have seen a string of exciting new releases from the Japanese brand, and it doesnt look like GS is planning on slowing down anytime soon. To celebrate the 55th anniversary of its legendary 44GS, the brand introduces two limited-edition models with dials inspired by the stars in the sky. Both models are executed in Ever-Brilliant Steel and feature the latest hi-beat and Spring Drive movements. Lets find out how bright the stars shone when Grand Seiko created these two new watches.Grand Seiko takes the celebrations of the 55th anniversary of the 44GS seriously. We saw the first of the 55th-anniversary models announc [...]
We like to talk about vintage watches a lot within the Fratello team. Though most of what we write about is largely focused on the most recent releases and developments, for many of us, a lot of the fun can be found in the sometimes weird and often wonderful world of vintage watches. Its a world full of history, remarkable watches, incredible stories, and quirky details. It inspired us to come up with a series of articles focusing on the best watches per decade from a select group of brands. Some of them are priceless, some of them are still affordable. In this installment, we will take a look at the best Grand Seiko watches from the 2000s.By the turn of the millennium, Switzerland had proud [...]
There's a cold wind blowing from the East, and it carries the Grand Seiko Chronograph SBGC247 and GMT SBGE275. Both watches are limited editions that have something to celebrate. The GMT celebrates the 20th anniversary of the first Spring Drive GMT watch. The chronograph, the 15th anniversary of the what again? Exactly. And what did Grand Seiko use as a source of inspiration for the celebratory dials of the watches? Thats right nature. Nature again? some folks would complain. But is that a bad thing? Let me answer that question in this article. And while I'm at it, I will also address something that is a hot topic amongst Grand Seiko fans and followers here on Fratello the stream of new Gran [...]
In the land of the rising sun, the love runs strong, and the heart ticks away the moments worth remembering. These Japanese watches are prime eligible bachelor(-ette?)s looking for their ideal wearer to pick them up and while away the hours in sweet adoration. Today, its the elegant Grand Seiko SLGA007, the jazzy Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 2, and the shamefully easy Casio MQ24-7B2. Theyre all fun, in their own way. Its just up to you to which watch youll say, ˤϡĴ줭Ǥ (Konnichiwa, daisuki desu Hello, I love you).We here at Fratello have been showing Japanese watches a lot of love lately, to which I say, Kanpai From a flurry of articles about different elements in the G-Shock line, to Jorgs [...]
Theres no stopping Grand Seiko Today the brand introduced its third new reference for 2022, the Grand Seiko White Birch SLGA009. Granted, the other two (SBGA471 and SBGH295) were US-market exclusives, but thats not how the internet works, of course. When news of the new White Birch reached our inbox this morning, I had to look twice to see how it differs from the 2021 Grand Seiko SLGH005. But after taking a closer look, I can confirm that it indeed does!If youre as old as I am and used to playing computer games on PC, Amiga, or some old-school consoles, the title of this article might sound familiar. It refers to a proper old-school game from 1989, called Xenon II The Megablast. Normally, se [...]
Western culture likes to take things easy. Take the seasons, for example. We have four of them. But Japan has 24 sekki that mark nature's ever-changing seasons. And that's a good thing because the nuances of these 24 periods are way more subtle than the ones we know. For example, in Japan, they have a name for the time when autumn turns to winter. They call that sk, the time of the year when the first frost blankets color the landscape. The Grand Seiko Sk Frost SBGH295 and SBGA471 are frosty beauties with a warm afterglow that capture the natural phenomenon. The two watches are U.S.-exclusive special editions (NOT limited editions, just special ones) that are part of the Grand Seiko Heri [...]
In 2022, Grand Seiko celebrates the 55th anniversary of its famous design language, known as the Grand Seiko Style. This particular style came to life in 1967 with the introduction of the 44GS case. This celebration calls for a limited edition from the Japanese manufacturer. Meet the Grand Seiko SBGJ255, the latest Hi-Beat GMT addition to the brands Heritage Collection.If this watch looks familiar to you, theres a good reason for that. I had to look twice when the press release came in from Grand Seiko, as it looks a lot like the reference SBGJ201 that I bought back in 2018. Besides taking a closer look at the new Grand Seiko SBGJ255 limited edition, I will also do a side-by-side comparison [...]
In the past, watch brands presented their new watches during the two major shows. One of them doesn't exist anymore (Baselworld) and this year, the other one was done digitally (Watches Wonders, previously known as SIHH). I think I speak for the entire team and all my media colleagues when I write that we miss these shows a lot. However, we also noticed that brands are quite flexible and decided to release their watches throughout 2021, not only limiting them to one of these big events.It has been tough to travel this year due to the never-ending pandemic, but luckily, brands adapted and often sent us watches under embargo or made individual appointments with us to show the watches in the f [...]
Despite all the things happening in the world that are holding us back, the last two months of the year flew by. So when our Managing Editor Nacho asked me to come up with my Top 5 Watches of 2021, I was surprisingly caught off guard. But looking back at the year behind us, I can only say it has been a very long year with plenty of great releases. Its been so long that its hard to believe that some of these watches were actually released in 2021. That made it quite tough to come up with a top-5 list of my favorites.A fair question would be if I can ignore the watches we as a Fratello team have released in collaboration with the different brands. Of course, I cannot ignore them, but they will [...]
Not too long ago, I wrote about the best Seiko JDM releases of the last 25 years. The next step was obviously to pick the best Grand Seiko JDM releases. But its not that simple. Ever since 2010, Grand Seiko has officially had an international focus. So JDM releases would technically be releases created in collaboration with Japanese retailers or the special Grand Seiko boutique editions. On top of that, I would love to add a Grand Seiko to my personal collection soon. So I decided to tap into the world of Grand Seiko limited editions and pick the best of the many that are out there.The big question when it came to this list, however, was whether I should go with the models that people genera [...]
Its funny, as if youd asked me my opinion of titanium last year, Id certainly not have the same opinion as I do today. Having only really worn and collected stainless steel watches, I was a bit weirded out by titaniums lightness when I first held it. It was a bizarre experience, and I wasnt ready for it. Since that day, practicality and sense have come to rule, and Ive learned not just to appreciate it but also love it!This innate lightness is not for everybody, and I get that. I sat on the other side of this argument for quite a while. So in an attempt to help convert some more folks over to teamtitanium, Ive put together a list of some of my favorite titanium watches that suit the winter [...]
So, this should be easy as I'm on home turf (home snow?) so to speak, even if my bio reveals my embarrassing secret. Yes, I am the only Norwegian who doesn't ski, neither cross country nor slalom. And no, I dont even own a snowboard. The closest I get to winter sports is sledding with the kids, which is actually quite a dangerous pursuit.?So what better than some ARCTICWHITE gear to camouflage me from the laughter of my mates as I sneak off to the city? While they're drunk at the Apr s Ski, I've snuck off to a coffee shop. You'll find me enjoying a strong macchiato with my writer's laptop, so sue me. However, I do enjoy the crisp polar white of a sports watch dial. Maybe even matched with [...]
You must think I've lost my marbles, surely the Rolex Explorer II is a tool watch. Or am I simply on a roll after a well-read article on Explorer I alternatives this week? Well no, and I'll give you my reasons. Unless your daily choice is a vintage Daytona or an 18K white gold AP, the Explorer II is not a tool watch not anymore. Not for mere mortals anyway. It is a fresh white-dialed GMT watch, perfectly comfortable for traveling, in most cases under an expensive shirt. But even as the Rolex underdog it is rather predictable. The Grand Seiko 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is the sharp alternative. But what about the sensitive Zaratsu polish? Well like the Rolex, it's not a tool is it, [...]
Of my meticulously planned collection of eight watches, my Zenith El Primero Striking 10th is the star of the show. Sure, its only my second-most expensive piece. But it takes the centermost spot in my watch box as well as my heart. Whenever I see it, I smile. Whenever I wear it, the pride of ownership oozes out of my pores. And whenever I talk about it, I bumble like an idiot, at a complete loss for where to begin (evidenced by the fact Ive started this article seven different times by now). But the road to acquiring my beloved Zenith El Primero Striking 10th was anything but smooth. Like with any watch worth having, the story of my Zenith is one of passion, patience, and persistence. It is [...]
There's not just one Grand Seiko GMT watch to pick in the The Best Boring But Brilliant Watches In The World series. There are 37 GMT watches on the European GS website to pick from. And if you also include a few discontinued or renamed models from the recent past the numbers go up even more. What is most interesting when you go through all the different references is that they cover all the bases. There's quartz, mechanical 4Hz and Hi-Beat, and Spring Drive. And the different GMT's range from introvert to exuberant.Right off the bat, I'm going to throw something controversial at you. I am going to compare the Grand Seiko GMT line-up to beef. Not just any beef, though, wagyu beef. A steak cu [...]